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APEC, Business, Gender, Governance, New Zealand, Resilience, Structural Reform, Training, Travel, Women, Work

APEC Public-Private Dialogue on Structural Reform and Gender

September 13, 2018.  Somewhere over the Pacific Ocean.  For the first time in my life, I visited New Zealand.  I attended the APEC Public-Private Dialogue on Structural Reform and Gender as the private sector representative of the Philippines.

Held September 10-11 in Wellington, the forum was a big eye-opener for me.  Over two days, I learned how structural reform can help remove many of the barriers to women’s economic participation in the region, and unlock their full potential.  Andrew Grant, senior partner of McKinsey & Company, estimates the full potential of women to contribute to the global GDP at $28 trillion per year, which equals the combined economies of China and the US.  For a best-in-region scenario of addressing three gender gaps: additional workforce participation, shifting the mix towards full-time work, and improving sector mix and productivity, this could mean an additional $12 trillion per year, equivalent to the combined economies of Japan, Germany and the United Kingdom.  Zeroing in further, the Asia-Pacific economies can improve by $4.5 trillion annually, equal to the combined economies of Austria and Germany.

The numbers are staggering, and the potential is great, but many things have to be done to unlock the rewards. Many of the barriers are legislative, regulatory or policy in nature.   Addressing low labor force participation in quality jobs, under representation of women in business leadership positions, uneven access to digital technology, and entrenched attitudes about women’s role in society and work are some common themes that call for action. In addition, we need to throw in gender equality in work, provision of essential services to women, legal protection and political voice, and physical security and autonomy.

Dr. Tatyana Teplova, senior counsellor and head of Governance for Gender and Inclusiveness Unit of the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD), stressed the importance of promoting women’s active participation in the global economy to achieve truly sustainable and inclusive growth. Citing research in OECD economies, she identified several remaining gaps in gender equality, such as an 11% gender employment gap, only 32% share of women in senior management positions in central government, 32% average of women supreme court judges across OECD, 28.7% average of women parliamentarians in OECD, and 20% average of young women studying STEM. Alarmingly, 57% of OECD economies listed violence against women as their most urgent priority.  The cost of exclusion is high, and Dr. Teplova summarized the three Es that can unlock sustainable and inclusive economic growth as Employment, Education, and Entrepreneurship.  She shared the OECD Toolkit for Mainstreaming & Implementing Gender Equality that economies can adopt to address the barriers.

Speakers from various Asia-Pacific economies related how they are currently mainstreaming gender issues.  Ms. Chiu-Chun Lin of Chinese Taipei’s Department of Gender Equality shared real life examples of their ten-year journey in implementing the Gender Impact Assessment (GIA), which is both tool and process in practicing gender mainstreaming to achieve gender equality.  Recognizing major challenges such as established social norms and gender stereotypes (i.e., men are breadwinners and women are home makers), glass ceilings, and low labor rate participation of women due to childbirth and having to care for children, Ms. Lin shared Chinese Taipei’s initiatives for mainstreaming. These included building women’s capacity through education and training; promoting family friendly workplace policies like maternity/paternity/parental and family care leaves, once a month menstrual leaves, and twice-a-day breastfeeding time; extending access to capital and capacity building for women-owned start-ups and helping small and medium scale businesses through their Women Entrepreneurship Flying Geese Program; promoting board gender diversity in listed companies; and encouraging women’s participation in the government ministries through their One-Third Gender Ratio Principle.

Mr. Kohei Fukawa of Japan’s Gender Equality Bureau, Cabinet Office, explained Womanomics under the Abe administration. In January 2001, Japan established the Council for Gender Equality  directly reporting to the Prime Minister with the aim of creating a society in which all women shine. In December 2015, the Cabinet approved the Fourth Basic Plan for Gender Equality with long-term government policy directions and specific measures, which include reforming labor practices such as the tendency to take long working hours and relocations for granted; recruiting and promoting women, developing women leaders and increasing their participation in all fields of society; creating an environment that supports women in difficult situations; enhancing measures to eliminate violence against women; and more.

Mr. Fukawa reported an increase of over two million women in the workforce in the past five years under the Abe administration. Over the same period, nursing home capacity has increased by over 600 thousand to ease the waiting time for child nursing care facilities, allowing mothers with young children to re-enter the workforce. Realizing that Japanese women work much longer for unpaid work, while men are paid for their work, Japan is making a big push towards improving work-life balance.  Work-Style Reform Legislation was enacted in July 2018 calling for equal pay for equal work and setting an upper limit for working hours. As a reward, “Eruboshi” Certification is granted to companies that engage in good practices, with additional points in the evaluation of public procurement for those promoting work-life balance.

Ms. Nguyen Thi Thu Ha shared Vietnam’s national strategy for gender equality, hinged on the following objectives: strengthening women’s representation in leadership and management positions; narrowing the gender gap in the economy especially in the rural areas; improving human resources through education and training; ensuring gender equality in accessing and receiving health care services, in culture and information, and in family life; eliminating gender-based violence and enhancing the capacity of state management on gender equality.  Results of Vietnam’s initiatives are seen in political leadership where a woman serves as the current chairperson of the national assembly and three women serve in the politburo.  Literacy levels for women is up 92%.  Social insurance laws are in place, providing parental leaves for female and male laborers, establishing a safe working environment for women, and setting up kindergartens in industrial zones.  With the help of central and local radio and TV stations, there is better public awareness of gender equality, encouraging men to share the housework and women to share the family’s economic burden.

The head of the Equality Unit of Iceland’s Ministry of Welfare Ms. Rosa Guorun Erlingsdottir shared why Iceland continues to rank first in the gender equality index.  It was not always like this though, as she shared how the women of Iceland fought for women’s equality.  Although women in Iceland won the right to vote in 1915, behind New Zealand and Finland, women’s uptake in leadership positions in government was slow. Compared to 16% to 23% in other Nordic countries, Icelandic women comprised only 5% of parliament seats in 1975.  Naturally, this was frustrating for Icelandic women.

Ms. Erlingsdottir shared how Affirmative Action can make change happen.  On October 24, 1975, now known as Women’s Day Off, Icelandic women decided it was time they were taken seriously by the men.  On that fateful day, instead of going to work, doing housework, or taking care of their children, women decided to go on strike, taking to the streets and demanding for equal rights.  Work came to a standstill.  Services stopped.  Suddenly, men realized the importance of women as they had to take care of the children, with many not knowing how to go about it.  Since then, women have enjoyed great strides to gender equality.

At present, Ms. Erlingsdottir reported that 79% of women are actively employed, with 34% working part time.  There are gender quotas on public committees and company boards, and laws in place requiring certification of equal pay.  There is an all-women political party, paving the way for women to hold 38% of parliament seats in 2017, and 44% of local governments seats in 2018.  Women make up 2/3 of university students. Ninety percent of children aged one to five years are in day care centers, with municipalities footing 85% of the cost.  Parental leave legislation allows equal rights for men and women, with three months each for males and females, and three months shared rights for parents.  Because of this legislation, over 90% of fathers have taken their paternity leave, drastically changing ideas about masculinity.  And I dare say, they actually enjoy it from the photos she showed of fathers with their young children.

The economic benefits are clear.  The increase in the number of women employed has raised per capita Nordic GDP by 10-20% over the past 50 years.  Closing gender gaps in the next 20 years are predicted to boost Nordic GDP growth by another 15-30%.

Interestingly enough, the RTS Senior VP of McKinsey & Company Australia Jovita Gartlan believes that in some cases it is the women who hold themselves back. Sharing her personal experience while attending a meeting where the participants were asked if they wanted to take on the top post of the company, most said they did not want to. They were happy with their current situation, and felt that they had too much on their plate already and did not want the additional stress.

Citing McKinsey research on women in the workplace, Ms. Gartlan said that while women are just as interested in advancing as men, they progress more slowly through the corporate pipeline.  And while women ask for promotions as often as men, men move up faster without having to ask.  She noted that less women aspire to and believe they will become a top executive, and that fewer women than men enjoy the support of their managers in their quest for advancement.  The studies are clear: gender greatly impacts women’s opportunities, especially since women have to do most of the housework (which is unpaid) after a full day’s paid work at the office.  Given the double work shift of home and office, and having to care for children and the elderly, no wonder women hold back.

For organizations that wish to change the game and move more women into positions of leadership, Ms. Gartlan recommends building a strong business case for change, redesigning roles to enable more flexible arrangements, actively sponsoring potential women leaders, providing reinforcement mechanisms that support women through life transitions and challenge traditional views or merit in recruitment and evaluation, investing in training to build leadership capabilities and giving them experience in key leadership roles.  She urged women to actively ask their managers not just to mentor them, but to sponsor them for promotion.  And for those who feel happy where they are, to embrace the feelings of “being enough” and not feel pressured.

The forum also gathered indigenous women holding leadership positions in the public and private sectors.  Linda Paru of Papua New Guinea talked about the challenges women entrepreneurs, especially those from MSMEs, faced such as lack of access to credit and the high cost of internet and ICT.  While there are many challenges, she cited telecoms and financial reforms that contribute to MSME’s participation in online services, digital finance, e-health and e-education.  Senior Adviser for the Status of Women in Canada, Anne Fontaine spoke of indigenous women’s issues, rights and interests in Canada.  Ms. Rangimarie Hunia, director of Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei Whai Maia Ltd., spoke of the leadership role of Maori women, being a prime example herself of a strong Maori woman leader intent on securing the future of her mokopuna or the next generation.

Ms. Josephine Cashman, Founder, Executive Director and Managing Director of Big River Consulting Pty. Ltd., spoke of her experiences with legislation and regulation implementation and enforcement.  It is one thing to come up with laws against domestic violence and gender discrimination, and another to implement it. She recounted the experience of an elected female MP who resigned because of bullying from her male colleagues; they were more interested in her hair and attire than her policy work.  The statistics in New Zealand are harrowing: one in three women have suffered physical or sexual abuse; one in five were harassed at work and one woman per week is killed by a former partner.  The statistics are even more alarming for Maori women.  Strengthening enforcement is thus crucial.

To combat this, New Zealand has embarked on a national campaign against domestic violence and gender discrimination.  New Zealand has passed legislation granting victims of domestic violence 10 days paid leave to allow them to get away from their abusive partners, relocate and protect themselves and their children.  The only other country that has passed a similar law on a national level is the Philippines under the Anti-Violence Against Women and Their Children Act of 2004, granting up to 10 days special leave for victims and stiff penalties for employers who try to impede such leave.

Gender Pay Equity was another hot topic.  And here, Ms. Rosa Guorun Erlingsdottir of Iceland shared the inroads they are doing to reduce the estimated 20% difference in pay between men and women.  Iceland has made it a legal requirement for employers with 25 people and more to get an Equal Pay Certification which must be renewed yearly.  This means Equal Pay for the same Work or Work of Equal Value.  To ensure there is no discrimination, an audit is done of jobs of equal value, separating the job from the person doing it.  Employers are asked to rank jobs, which are then paired with jobs of equal value.  Companies that get the certification are also allowed to use the Equal Pay Symbol in their corporate promotions.  Companies that do not follow the law are fined.

Participants were fully engaged in two workshops. First was a practical group exercise on Gender Impact Assessment where each table was asked to weigh in on a country-wide issue that affects women and to recommend how to handle the situation.   Our group was presented with a Public Sector Scenario of a drastic slump in the economy causing businesses to close and government wanting to reduce its overhead.  The department mandate is to limit government jobs to only one person per family.  With approximately 40% women in government positions, of which 39% have frontline service positions while 27% have back office positions, 21% in middle management positions, 13%in senior leadership positions and 29% working part time, it was obvious that women would be the first to lose their jobs.

Our animated discussion revolved around how to consult the public and women in particular on the proposal and what changes in the draft resolution we recommended.  We looked at how families will want to keep the full time, higher-paid member on government payroll to ensure continued family income, and how the government can assist families that are affected such as stepping up skills training, giving higher separation pay, providing priority access to funds and markets, giving plus points in government procurement for those let go, and ensuring gender neutral criteria in the selection of those to let go.  The group discussion highlighted the disparity in economies of Chile and New Zealand where the unemployed enjoy six months insurance versus that of Mexico and the Philippines, where no work means no pay and no food on the table.

To cap the two-day dialogue, Mr. Phil O’Reilly, New Zealand APEC Business Advisory Council Member, facilitated a whole group discussion on next steps that APEC can take to push the agenda of structural reform and gender.  The group came up with a long list of recommendations, such as collecting data and best practices for gender plus lens across APEC economies and sharing this in a digital portal for easy access, conducting and making available research on gender pay standards and how to close the gender pay gap, studying the OECD Toolkit to determine its adaptability in the region, and establishing a pathfinder initiative that looks at how gender is incorporated into all free trade agreements, to name a few.

I look forward to finding out what APEC will adopt as its next steps given this first foray into a dialogue on structural reform and gender.  Definitely, there is a lot that needs to be done to remove barriers to women’s economic participation in the region, and unlock their full potential.  What is clear to me from this two-day dialogue is the urgent need to measure and know disaggregated gender data using the Gender Plus lens.  Unless we establish a base line, we won’t know what needs to be done and how we are progressing.  As New Zealand’s Acting Policy Director for Economic Independence of the Ministry of Women, Ms. Riripeti Reedy said, “You only treasure what you measure.”  We have to start now.

Church, Faith, Food, Friendship, God, Life

Keeping the Faith Alive at 75

August 5, 2018.. Yesterday, we launched the Catholic Bishops Conference of the Philippines Basic Ecclesial Communities (CBCP-BEC) Fund Drive at Saint Andrew the Apostle Parish in Bel-Air 2, Makati City. The event went well, despite a spotty start involving a quick and frantic re-layout of the reception venue, with the help of Arlene and Rod of Saint Andrew, and the kind waiters of Wicked K.

Officiating priests led by Bp. Joe Cabantan.

Guests started to arrive and register at 3:30pm, just as the heavens opened and heavy rain poured. Fleeting worries about flooding were quickly dispersed as mass began, officiated by Bishop Joe Cabantan, Monsignor Manny Gabriel, Monsignor Ernie Joaquin, Fr. Dodong Billones and Fr. Didoy Molina. Soon, the church began to fill up. After the mass, guests went up to the Jubilee Hall to savor the delicious food and to renew friendships, young and old.

    

For those who have not had the honor of meeting Monsi Manny before, he is one of the best spiritual mentors and BEC supporters that I have been blessed to know. Charming, intelligent, insightful, funny, sincere, honest…all these and more describe Monsi Manny. No wonder he is much loved and respected. This was palpably evident as people from different parishes came up to greet him during the launch; people whose hearts Monsi Manny has touched in his spiritual ministry, leaving an indelible mark. Just as he has been there for me, through the many trials I have had.

Memories of the past four months came back. In March, my friend Wilma Leagogo and I received an invitation from Bishop Jose Araneta Cabantan to join the Finance and Funding Unit (FFU), tasked to provide financial and logistical support to the Commission’s operations and program implementation, and to establish the financial system of the office in keeping with the spirituality of Servant Stewardship. We were to coordinate with the Commission’s Executive Secretary, Monsignor Manny Gabriel. Wondering what this was about, Wilma and I hied over to Intramuros on April 5 to meet the Bishop for the very first time, and to be briefed on CBCP-BEC and its various projects. On that day, I also met the other members of the FFU who have since become real friends: Amy Cabal, Rory de Vela, Benny Araw, Marisa Calinap. Later, I met other members: Emily Calanog, Mon Jimenez and Bob Prevosa.

I remember voicing out that they must have made a mistake in asking me to be part of the FFU as I was not a finance person, but could help out in other areas such as communications, strategy, marketing, and events. Monsi Manny said we all had our own charisms that we would bring, but the most important ones were faith and a commitment to serve. With that, we set up a Viber group for comms and began meeting regularly in TeamAsia, as most of us hail from the South, to set plans. Always, Monsi was there to inspire us to give our best.

Monsi Manny suggested that we launch the Fund Drive on the occasion of his 75th birthday, and ask his friends to support the CBCP-BEC in lieu of birthday gifts. The date was set: August4, the Feast of Saint John de Vianney, patron saint of parish priests.

MonJ came up with a simple and beautiful electronic invitation: “Keeping the faith alive at 75.”

We looked for venues that would allow us to have a mass and merienda after, but they were either unavailable or too expensive. Then, Andre Kahn recommended we try Saint Andrew the Apostle Parish, across his office. Rory and I checked out the place but they were closed on a Monday. The next day, Monsi and the ladies went, and were welcomed with open arms by the parish priest, saying we could use the venue for free.

With Arlene, the ever helpful angel of St. Andrew the Apostle Parish, and Wicked Kitchen’s Jean Arce and Koochie Laxamana

I scouted for caterers comparing rates and menus, and just like that, two weeks before the event, I learned about Wicked Kitchen which is run by my classmate Jean Arce’s daughter, Koochie Laxamana. Wicked Kitchen offered delicious food within our budget, and was most helpful.   It was the perfect choice, as several guests asked later for their number saying the food was excellent.

Bob came up with the encompassing launch PowerPoint Presentation, which I tweaked for the visibility in the venue. We used MonJ’s design to come up with a printed invitation. Then the finance wizards in the group set up the accounting system. Now, all that was left was to invite guests.

Clearly, God was opening doors for us.

The CBCP-BEC is the National Office given the task of coordinating all efforts to initiate, develop and promote BECs in all the dioceses and parishes in the Philippines.  The projects they have lined up include:

– the BEC Faith Encounter, a 12-step experience initiating the participants to the BEC mind set focused on Christology, Missiology and Ecclesiology;

– priests’ training on Pastoral Management of BECs to equip them with practical approaches in solving critical issues that may arise in forming and handling the parish/BECs;

– Historico-Theological Reflections of BECs in the Philippines which will collect historical as well as theological reflections on how BEC has indeed become the new way of being Church in the country today;

– BEC Research with DLSU-Manila, a scholarly and comprehensive study on how BECs contributed to the Christianization of the Philippines these past 50 years;

– BEC National Directors Meeting which will gather BEC Directors from all over the country to meet, to update, and to share their experiences of ministering for the promotion of BEC;

– BEC National Assembly which will bring together all BEC practitioners and members from around the country to exchange ideas and experiences as a community of believers and to celebrate their being Church;

– and the more mundane office concerns such as website upgrade and redesigning, securing a new air-conditioning unit (it’s a sauna there!), getting new office desktop, laptop & printer to replace the antiquated equipment, doing minor renovation of office space, and obtaining office furniture & book shelves.

To fund these initiatives, we have to raise at least One Million Pesos each year. That is a formidable goal but with God’s grace, Monsi and Bp Joe’s guidance, our tight knit group at the FFU, and staunch supporters, it can be done, for nothing is impossible for the Lord.

The hardworking CBCP-BEC FFU

To God be the glory!

 

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Revisiting Balesin 2018

May 23, 2018. Andre and I went to Balesin for a quick trip, together with friends Poch and Pam Zamora and their children, Katrina and Javier, and Leo and Michelline Suarez with their youngest son, Vito. It was our second visit, and we really wanted to try out the Italian Village, Toscana. Fortunately, Poch was able to change our reservation from the Philippine Village, Balesin to Toscana, and we were overjoyed. More so, when we found out that the room we got, Tavernelle, was the one I had painted the first time we were in Balesin.

With a wraparound balcony, Tavernelle is a spacious suite at the very end of Toscana, with one side facing the sea and the other the pool. It was truly a dream come true! From the wood-timbered rafters, white washed walls, red brick-lined arched windows and doors, cool tiled floors, dark wooden furniture, wrought iron detail, and comfortable armchairs and bed, Tavernelle is a destination in itself, reminding me of our visit to Tuscany, Italy. Its fiercely cold air-conditioning was an added bonus, given the heat outside.

After a delightful and filling lunch at Toscana, our group went separate ways to swim and laze in different villages. Andre rented a golf cart to ferry us around the island, and I gladly served as chauffeur. We visited the different villages, getting as far as the French St. Tropez and the Greek Mykonos Village. That night, we were so tired we decided to just stay in Toscana and have a light dinner of soup.

Breakfast the next day was at Sala, the Filipino-themed restaurant at Balesin Village. We were just about to go swimming when we received a call from reception that we needed to transfer to a beachfront villa in Balesin because they were going to close Toscana. Apparently, if they do not have at least seven rooms occupied in a village, they close it down. Everyone else staying at Toscana had checked out that morning, so we hurried back to pack our bags and move to Balesin.

Settled in Balesin, we joined the group for a late Thai lunch at Phuket Village. It was delicious but not as fiery as we would have wanted it to be. Poch prepared his own chili concoction that brought out the flavors of the curries to perfection and had us sniffling throughout the meal.

After this, Andre and I decided to laze in the Phuket pool, before transferring to Balesin where we took a dip in the beach. Unlike the rocky beach at Phuket, the sand at Balesin was very fine, almost Boracay-like, and the water absolutely clear and warm. I was delighted that Andre joined me as he normally stays away from the beach because of insect bites.

Dinner that night was at Han Gang, the Korean restaurant, where we sampled a variety of Korean appetizers (the kimchi was delicious!) and the meat was grilled in front of us, creating a smoky ambiance. As usual, conversation was interesting, revolving this time around the pluses and minuses of traveling as a group, river vs ocean cruises and gastronomic experiences. We agreed to travel as a group again.

Soon enough our trip to Balesin was over. On the way home, Andre and I were discussing which village we would like to sample next. We both agreed: Mykonos. Oompah!

Business, Travel, Women, Work

Outstanding ASEAN Women Entrepreneurs Award in Bangkok

May 10, 2018.  Bangkok.  As I donned my simple terno for the awarding ceremonies of the Outstanding ASEAN Women Entrepreneurs, all I could think of was that I hope it would fit. Still in a bit of a haze realizing I was in Bangkok, Thailand, I relived the past few hectic days.

On May 4, I was elected as the incoming president of the Women’s Business Council of the Philippines (WomenbizPH).  At that same meeting, I also learned that I was to receive an award along with nine other Filipinas: Cherrie Atilano of AGREA, Natividad Cheng of Uratex, Imelda Ahalul-Dagus of Dennis Coffee Garden in Zamboanga City, Octavia Hizon of Hizon’s Restaurant & Catering Services, Jeannie Javelosa of Great Women Philippines and ECHOstore, Edilee Omoyon of Milea Organics, Olive Puentespina of Malagos Cheese in Davao City, and Carlota Manalo-Tan of Wendy’s Philippines.

AWEN established the ASEAN Women Entrepreneurs Award to honor outstanding entrepreneurs who have made an impact in society through their commitment, vision, and leadership, and through gender-sensitive and fair labor practices for women.

It all seemed too much to take in, especially since our company was in the final stages of organizing the 29th East Asian Insurance Congress (EAIC) May 6-9 at the Marriott Grand Ballroom. International delegates had already started to arrive, and the EAIC Banquet and Closing Ceremonies were to be held the evening of May 8. There was no way I could leave the event to go to Bangkok, or so I thought.

But my friends Chit Juan, Boots Garcia and Jeannie Javelosa insisted I join them in Bangkok. So did my daughter Bea. And my client at EAIC agreed for me to miss the closing of the Congress so I could catch the last flight to BKK on the 9th. After all, my seasoned team could handle the event. The week whirled by quickly managing the EAIC.

And so here I was in Bangkok, putting on my pink terno and wondering what challenges lie ahead for me. I trust that whatever they are, I make my family, friends, colleagues and country proud.

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Club Paradise 2010

April 3, 2010.  It’s our 10th year of coming to Club Paradise as a family. Also, our first to come during the Easter Triduum. Despite guilt feelings of not being in church, we decided to come here to celebrate our oneness as a family before the girls go off to distant lands.

As usual, family bonding is a time for ribbing and re-living memories. The first year we came, Niccolo was afraid of the water so we built sand castles with plastic shovels and pails while Mike and the older children learned how to dive. Niccolo baked cookies with the chef as a special treat. On the last morning, I finally coaxed him into the water, and he was amazed at the fish swimming close to the shore. Then he cried when we had to get out of the water. He’s loved to swim ever since.

Cara, our camera buff

Bea would always bring a book and read by the water. So, would Mike. I would bring my paints and try to capture some of the beauty around me on paper. Cara, our resident camera buff, resorted to photography instead. Bea and Mike are both avid photographers, as well.

The view from Eagle’s Point

We always hike up the mountain trail to get to Eagles’ Point where you have a 360 degree view of the surroundings. Cara got so dizzy one time we hiked after breakfast that she “baptized” the tree house with her morning meal halfway up the mountain.

Praying the Stations of the Cross

Yesterday at 3pm, Mike, Bea and I went up the mountain to do the Way of the Cross. Under the smoldering sun, we hiked up and prayed 14 stations until we reached the summit.

We made it to the summit!

Understandably, we were so tired and drenched with perspiration when we reached the top, we could hardly talk to each other.  We had forgotten to bring water, and we were thoroughly parched. After a few minutes, we heard the sound of people coming up and saw some maintenance men huffing and puffing while carrying a big chest full of ice-cold water.  What a treat it was! Truly the Lord is good, we all exclaimed! But then, we discovered that there were no cups to use, so we resorted to using our bare hands.

The Komodo dragon

On the way down, we came upon a huge creature (bayawak? Komodo dragon? Lizard? It was at least 70 lbs.) right smack in the middle of the trail. We were about to shoot some photos, when another party coming up the trail surprised the creature and caused it to charge up towards us. We quickly scrambled to safety for dear life, hoping it would not snap at us with its scary looking teeth and strong jaws.

As we went back to our cottage last night, we came upon a deer feeding. Mike cautioned me not to take a snapshot, but to let it eat in peace. And that’s really what Club Paradise offers: peace.

When we would first come here, there were no cell sites. The older children suffered severe withdrawal pains when their mobile phones went dead and they were incommunicado with the outside world and their friends. It was a good time to bond as a family. Now, with better connections, we can use our laptops and mobile devices to stay in touch.

The view from our porch

I learned to snorkel (and to enjoy it) with Mike holding my hand. Yes, I am afraid of the expanse of deep, dark, cold waters, but with Mike I discovered the beauty that lay just beneath. The vivid colors of sea life teeming underneath the waves spurred my imagination. I wish I could find the colors to capture their beauty when I paint.

Once, when Mike and I were snorkeling, we saw two huge fish swim by (they were almost as big as I was). We followed their lazy meandering for about an hour. It was such a sublime experience.

Now that Mike is not allowed to get his eye wet while waiting for the cornea transplant, I had to go swimming with the children without him. He’s off working on his laptop in the club house. It was so funny when Niccolo scolded me and told me to stay with them instead of going off on my own, when he held my hand to make sure I was safe, when the girls all insisted that I put on a life jacket before I went snorkeling (you’re not a strong swimmer, mom, better to be safe). The tables have been turned. I was the one to be looked after now.

Right now, Bea and Cara are sunning themselves, while Niccolo is out snorkeling. And here I am, beside my beloved Mike, as we both work on our computers.

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Surprising Matinloc

What a pleasant surprise Matinloc Resort in Palawan turned out to be! Reading Trip Advisor reports before the trip, Andre and I were alarmed at all the negative comments guests had about food. So much so that we loaded up on goodies just in case we got disappointed. Upon arriving at the airport, Beth, the resort coordinator, was already aware of our apprehension on the quality of the food. She informed us that their kitchen staff knew of our apprehension.

Arriving at the resort way past lunch, Chef Mel himself came up and introduced himself saying he had brief stints at several restaurants in Boracay, including making gelato at the famous Aria. After which he said he would prepare an off-the-menu lunch for us. And it was good! He whipped up a chicken calzone oozing with mushrooms, cheese and black olives.

The next day, Chef Mel prepared another customized meal of fresh squid stuffed with mushroom, zucchini, and cheese served with mashed sweet potato, grilled corn, eggplant, broccoli and honey amaretto reduction. Adding cheese to the stuffing was Andre’s idea.

Breakfast buffet was simple but good. What stood out to our amazement was discovering genuine buttery flaky croissants on the island which we enjoyed with blueberry, raspberry, and orange marmalade, alongside freshly brewed cappuccino.

Chef Mel was gone on our third day, but Chef Sherwin took over preparing our late lunch on our third day. He prepared a dish of three prawns on an omelette bed sprinkled with black sesame seeds, a trio of crunchy vegetable tempura wrapped in nori, steamed vegetables, with a choice of Japanese curry or soy sauce dip. It was as delicious as it was pretty to look at.

Matinloc boasts of powdery white sand on a short beach cradled by limestone cliffs. At one end of the beach was a tall round wooden cabaña with thatched roofing, while the other end had a long cement pier jutting out to the water where boats docked for arriving and departing guests. Lounging chairs with baby blue umbrellas line half the beach, while an infinity pool invites guests to come in for a cooling swim.

While relaxing on the lounge chair, I was so inspired by the view of sea, sky, sand and rock, that I took out my paints and brushes and started to paint. Andre asked me how the lone yucca tree on top of the rock formation got there. A bird, I guess.

Time passed quickly, and I did not notice that my right side was under the sun all the time I was painting, hence, my half a tan! The next day, we made sure we sprayed on suntan protection. It was so potent that I now have white zebra stripes on my arms, while the rest of me is tanned. Hilarious!

Fronting the beach was the sole circular restaurant outlet where meals were served. Its tall open windows allowed guests to enjoy nature’s beauty: the sparkling blue water, the clear blue sky, the pristine sand and the far off islands in the horizon, not to mention the fresh sea breeze and the sound of waves gently hitting the shore. A wooden deck surrounded the restaurant with outdoor plastic wicker chairs and tables under coconut trees.

Large deluxe cabins faced the beach. From the beach, one could see cabins perched high on the hillside with a fantastic view of the sea. Wooden steps led up to these cabins, some requiring more than 200 steps. The builders ensured the cabins were nature-friendly, as many of them were wrapped around tree trunks. Why, there was even a tree house by the garden. At the back of our building, they were building a funicular to bring guests up to the highest cabins. We could just imagine how difficult it would be to go up and down those steps.

Our room, thankfully, was on the first floor of a three story building facing the garden. It was roomy, high-ceilinged with wide wooden planks as flooring, and a separate changing room. A canopied king-sized bed decked with thin billowy netting lent a romantic air to the room. Airconditioning was faultless, amenities first class, and the bed super comfy.

If there is anything they need to improve on is their weak and spotty wifi, as this was possible only by the front desk or at the pier. There was no signal in the room or at the beach.

The staff were very friendly, and the service was warm and consistent. Special mention to K-Zy, Jay-ar and Hannah of Reservations and Front Desk, Beth who met us at the airport, Nelyn and Weng of F&B, and Jocer of Marine Sports.

It was truly a most enjoyable respite, and one we would love to go back to. Next time, we may even opt for the highest cabin with its spectacular view, that is, if the funicular is already working.

Food, Travel

Italy in Silang

January 28, 2018.  Andre and I have just discovered the most amazing Italian Trattoria in Silang. With red bricks, yellow stucco walls, and windows lined with green wooden shutters, the interiors of Trattoria Mario Mio reminded me of our family trip to Italy. The rust-colored ceiling with wooden beams was lit by hexagonal beveled glass lamps. Pretty Machuca black and white tiles gave life to the otherwise charcoal tiled floor.
 
We were late for our 1pm reservation because of gnarled Alfonso traffic due to road repairs, and we were worried they would be closed. Happily, they were open from 11am to 10pm, and we were ushered to a table by the window, overlooking a vegetable garden. Kim, our amiable waiter, explained that their salad veggies are harvested from their garden. Truly farm to table freshness!
 
Toasting with Kalamancello

Andre noticed the bottle of Kalamancello on the table and asked about it.  Kim explained that it was homemade, adding that it was delicious.  We made a mental note to end the meal with a sip of Kalamancello.

The chefs, originally from L’Opera, did not disappoint. It was an authentic Italian experience, starting with the funghi tripolati, or assorted mushroom sautéed in garlic and olio extra virgin di olive on a bed of lettuce and spinach with balsamic on the side. We had zuppa di fagioli which was not on the menu. It was a hearty version of minestroni but with beans.
 
For his entree, Andre had the scallopini di vitello al marsala or dutch veal tenderloin in homemade marsala sauce.  He nodded approvingly as he had his first bite of the veal.  It was really tender, he vouched. And the marsala sauce was delicious.
I opted for the rotolini di bronzolo con zucchini, or rolled seabass in zucchini and shrimps with sautéed fresh vegetables in olio extra virgen di oliva. This dish immediately reminded me of Cara as we would search for restaurants serving rotolini while we were in Italy.
 
The tiramisu was too good to miss and so I broke my diet. We capped the lunch with Mario Mio’s homemade ice-cold kalamancello. It was definitely the perfect meal for a rainy Saturday afternoon. We loved it, and decided this is one place we can keep coming back to.
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Dreams do come true!

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May 3, 2017. This trip to Italy has been an amazing spiritual journey.

When we were in Florence, we attended Sunday mass at the Duomo. The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, more popularly known as the Duomo, is Florence’s most iconic landmark, with its red-tiled cupola designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. It has a magnificent Gothic exterior made up of pink, white and green marble and an imposing yet graceful bell tower. Began by Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio in 1296, it took almost 150 years to be completed.

When we entered the Duomo for mass, I was struck by the sparse, almost spartan interior. It was in stark contrast to the flamboyant grandeur of the cathedral’s facade. Tourists who were not going to attend mass were being stopped from entry.

We sat in the middle pew. Looking around, I saw a sign to the right side of the cathedral for confession. I told my children I would be quick and left them. Alas, the priest turned me away, saying only Italian confessions were allowed. Crestfallen, I returned to the children and we heard mass.

Opposite the octagonal cathedral is the Baptistry of San Giovanni, one of the most ancient churches in Florence. Believed to be a pagan temple dating back to Roman times which was converted into a church, the baptistry is clad in slabs of white Carrara and green Prato marble.

In Verona, while walking along the cobbled streets looking for the house of Juliet and the famous balcony, I saw an interesting building in one of the side streets that looked like a church. I felt a strong urge to enter. It turned out to be the Chiesa di San Tomio, a Colomboni church.

Once my eyes got accustomed to the dark interior of the church, I noticed a light in the confessional box. I quickly entered and asked the kindly old priest who was praying if he spoke Spanish or English. He gave me a radiant smile and said he could speak a little English having been a missionary in Africa. He asked me where I was from, and was delighted to learn that I am a lector at our parish in the Philippines.

Needless to say, I felt truly blessed having gone to confession with such a welcoming and warm priest. As I left, I asked him to pray for my children, my mom, and Andre. He rued that not a lot of young people these days go to confession, and promised to pray for my children. He also advised me to approach the Blessed Sacrament, and ask God to be with me always, as sometimes we become too busy living life we forget to call on Him. When I came out, Niccolo asked if the priest spoke English and I said yes. I was so happy when Niccolo followed suit and entered the confessional box!

On our last day in Verona, we visited the Church of Santa Anastasia. It was a beautiful church, full of religious art, paintings and sculptures. We heard music coming from a small side door. Curious, I entered and the children followed. A mass was going on in the tiny chapel. We joined the mass which was in Italian. There must have been less than 20 people at the mass. While we could not understand what the priest was saying in his homily, he was so engaging that his parishioners were responding to him, almost conversing with him. I was ecstatic that all my children attended mass and had communion.

In Rome, we visited the Pantheon on a Saturday. A pagan temple dedicated to Venus, Mars and all the other gods, it was built between 27 and 25 BC. Destroyed in 80 and 110 AD, it was restored by Emperor Hadrian in 118-125 AD. In 609 AD, the Byzantine Emperor Phocas donated the Pantheon to Pope Bonifacio IV who then converted it to a Roman Catholic Church and named it the Basilica di Santa Maria ad Martyres.

It is an architectural marvel and the most preserved of all the ancient buildings in Rome. Both the diameter and the height of the circular space are 43 meters. The Pantheon is considered a perfect sundial as at midday, the rays of sunlight going through the hole in the dome are aligned with the door.

I walked around the Pantheon, taking pictures of the different niches and chapels. The first chapel in the right was The Annunciation. The second chapel was a tomb monument of the first Italian King Victor Emanuel II. I was invited to sign in their visitor book. The third niche had a statue of St. Anne and the young Virgin Mary, while the third chapel had a painting of the Blessed Virgin with St. Francis and St.John the Baptist.

As I moved along, I noticed an old woman coming out of a door and going to and from the main altar, appearing to be preparing for a mass. I also noted that there were several pews fronting the center altar where people were seated, resting. When she was near, I asked her if by any chance there would be mass. I was overjoyed when she said there would be mass at 5pm if the priest comes. It was 4:30 pm. I told my children that I would hear mass and that they could leave me there and just come back for me after.

Bea and Niccolo decided to hear mass too. A man who appeared to be in charge announced that mass would start and that tourists would have to leave if they were not going to attend mass. Several of the tourists sitting on the pews left, and so we transferred to the front pew.

The old lady then started to distribute mass leaflets which had the readings translated into several languages. The man approached the faithful seated and asked if anyone spoke English. Once again, I felt an urge to stand up and tell him I speak English and that I am a lector. He then asked me to do the second reading as well as the prayers of the faithful. I was floored! What an honor to be able to serve the Lord at mass in the Pantheon! And it was a cardinal that officiated the mass in Italian. The only parts in English were mine. I felt humbled and blessed to be chosen.

After mass, the man approached us once again. I thanked him but he said he was the one who was grateful I had agreed to serve. He then said we have two minutes. I thought he meant we could walk around the Pantheon for two minutes before they closed. We were pleasantly surprised that he meant we could have a two-minute visit to the tiny chapel behind the main altar to see the secret hidden there. We passed by the little door I noticed the old woman come out of.

And there it was: the original and miraculous 7th century icon of the Madonna and Child. The icon that was gifted to the Pope when the Pantheon was converted from a pagan temple to Christianity. Our guide told us that there was a man born blind who was outside the Pantheon. The Pope said mass and prayed for the man, and he was able to see. A cleric was sent to check if it was true. The cleric brought with him a candle from the altar and used that to examine the man’s eyes, declaring that indeed he could now see. News of the miracle spread, and the icon was venerated as miraculous. Subsequently, the Pope announced a feast to celebrate Our Lady of the Candles on February 2, which we celebrate today as the Holy Feast of the Candelaria. We prayed fervently for our family and those we love.

Yesterday morning, Bea researched and learned that there was a Papal audience at St. Peter’s Square every Wednesday at 10am. To get in, however, we needed to be there by 7am. Niccolo volunteered to wake up early and accompany me to the mass. We also needed to get tickets between 3-7pm from the Swiss guards at the Vatican. Bea and Niccolo already had tickets for the Forum yesterday afternoon, and so it was left to Cara to run to the Vatican to get the tickets.

Because I could not walk far, I stayed at the Church of Sta. Anastasia near the Circulo Massimo. I visited the Blessed Sacrament and prayed the rosary there. It was very peaceful. Then, I went out and sat at a park bench writing.

And now, Niccolo and I are seated at St. Peter’s Square waiting for the 10am Papal audience. We arrived early enough to get seats on the sixth row near the center. There is a mass of humanity waiting with us. I hear a babble of languages all around. People from different parts of the world are here today in faith and brotherhood, singing, smiling, clapping. I am so happy!

Dreams do come true!

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Travel

In search of the perfect pizza and the best coastline

April 30, 2017. Today we decided to get out of Rome and explore Naples and the Amalfi Coast. We rented a car for the day. Our itinerary: Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi. Our objective: to eat the world’s best pizza and to see one of the world’s famous coastlines.

Our driver, Jun was a bit of a spoilsport. He kept trying to dissuade us from going to Naples, saying it was a terrible and unsafe place, and that our lives would be in danger. I was beginning to get creeped out. But, Cara, having visited Naples on her own years ago, said it was alright. Besides, the quest for the world’s best pizza is not something to dismiss that easily. Naples is known for its pizza, and Niccolo was already researching the best pizza place in Naples.

A port, Naples is a run down city. Another place lost in time. Somewhat like busy Divisoria, what with carts selling a variety of goods clogging the streets, and a mass of people weaving in and out. Clothes hung out to dry from apartment buildings. The streets were dirty, littered with refuse. Cars looked unwashed and beat up. A motorcyclist without a helmet zoomed by an uncaring cop. Yes, there was a hint of lawlessness about the city.

Our driver was so scared of Naples, he even hinted that we should take a cab into the city. But, hey, it was midday. The sun was up! And his passengers grew up in Quiapo, familiar and at ease with the hustle and bustle of the metropolis. Hello? Recto?

Niccolo chose Pizzeria Trianon, but alas, it was still closed. Cara did a quick Google search and came up with Antica Pizzeria da Michelle which was just around the corner. I must say it was the best pizza we’ve tasted, bar none. They only had two flavors to choose from: Margherita and Marinara, and they’ve been serving this up since 1870. The Pizzeria was busy, but we were lucky to find a table. We sat across the warm oven, a welcome treat from the nippy air outside.

Next on the itinerary was Pompeii. Again, Jun tried to talk us out of it saying it would take long. He asked us to drop one of our destinations as we would not have time to see everything we wanted. But visiting Pompeii has long been a childhood dream of mine. A bucket list to tick off.

The line for buying tickets was very long and snaked up the hillside. My children hesitated, asking me if I could handle the rolling terrain. We lined up nevertheless. The streets of Pompeii are cobbled and difficult to traverse, especially with a sprained foot and a walking stick, but I soldiered on, adamant to see the ruins of Pompeii.

Pompeii lies in the foothills of Mount Vesuvius. It was a bustling city, with many fine houses, a rich culture, and a booming economic economy. All these came to a halting stop when Mount Vesuvius erupted and covered the city in lava and ash. Most of the city’s 15,000 inhabitants perished, and today you can still see calcified corpses of people fleeing the destructive volcanic violence. There was a man in a sleeping position, another one hunched as if to pray. My heart sank when I saw the body of a small child and a dog. The volcano’s wrath spared none.

Pompeii lay hidden and forgotten for centuries until it was rediscovered by some diggings. And little by little, the beauty that lay beneath was unearthed and revealed, giving us today a glimpse of Roman life 800 years ago. Giant sculptures dotted the ruins, dwarfing us. What grandeur Pompeii must have had! If I could come back in time, I would like to visit Pompeii, avoiding he volcanic eruption, of course,

I wish that I was in better shape to explore Pompeii and that we had more time, but the rest of the trip beckoned and so we left. Perhaps some day I will be able to revisit this jewel from ancient times.

Soon, I saw glimpses of the startling blue sea as we zigzagged along the mountainside on our way to Sorrento. At times, the sun would be blocked as we entered a tunnel carved out of the mountain, and then the scape of sea and sun would once more be revealed.

Sorrento is a seaside town, very pretty. The apartments look airy with wrought iron balconies and colorful awnings to shield against the sun. The streets were narrow and twisting, with many a harrowing close calls as cars and buses met each other on the street. We drove down to the busy port where yachts were docked then back up again.

Just about everyone in Sorrento must have decided to come out and enjoy the sun. There were people in sleeveless tops and shorts, and here we were bundled up in our jackets. Hankering for some gelato and coffee we asked to be dropped off, and entered a hip gelatteria. I had a dark chocolate and cheese and figs ice cream while Cara had a Limon. Bea had a Nutella coffee while Niccolo had pistachio. We all loved it! Sorrento is known for its lemons, and so before we boarded the car, we bought a limoncello to bring home.

Our next stop was Positano. Once again, we found ourselves driving along the mountainside with a magnificent view of the sea on the other side. Italians drive extremely fast, and many a times we were overtaken by zooming motorbikes and cars. How they manage to escape harm bewilders me, given the sharp twists and turns of the narrow road, and the number of oncoming vehicles.

We stopped at a convenient point to take photos of Positano’s houses clinging to the cliff side. Positano is smaller than Sorrento but just as quaint. Our driver wanted to drive down to shoreside to show us the town and then head back to Rome, but we asked him to proceed to Amalfi instead so that we could catch it before sunset.

And catch it we did, just as the sun was beginning to wane. The driver dropped us off at the square and we walked to the church. The steps were steep, but it looked like such a beautiful church that we wanted to see it. Besides, the church had a relic of St. Mark. A mass was going on when we finally reached the church.

We then looked for a place to eat dinner. Amalfi is known for its seafood, and so we capped our tour with a fantastic seafood dinner at La Piazzetta. We had spaghetti con alici di cetara, pangrattato e noci (spaghetti with salted anchovies and walnuts), scialatelli amafitani con frutti di mare (homemade pasta with seafood), ravioli al pomodoro ripieni di ricotta di agerola, melanzane e provola (tomato ravioli with smoked mozzarella and eggplant), frittura mista del golfo (mixed local deep fried fish), lemon cake, pistachio cake, washed down with vino blanco de la casa and limoncello to end the meal. It was an amazing meal! And to think they had just been open a week!

It was the witching hour by the time we reached Rome, tired but happy. It was definitely a memorable tour of Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Positano, and the Amalfi Coast. And one, I would be eager to repeat but allotting two days instead of one.

Adventure, Children, Family, Food, Life, Love, Travel

Casa de Duckies Italian Visit

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This year, I celebrate my 60th birthday and the 25th year of TeamAsia. Instead of a birthday party, we agreed to go on a family trip to Italy. Why Italy? Because we love it!

Bea, Cara and I have been to Italy before while it will be Niccolo’s first trip to Italy. When I was 25, I went on a five day Italian tour with my Tio Mariano and Tia Conchi. It was beautiful and I vowed to return one day. I’ve been back twice visiting my sister Pinky and her husband Ken, and now this fam trip.

Cara lived in Sicily for three months on an internship at Gran Hotel Piazza Borsa, and I visited her there. The two of us traipsed through an unforgettable trip to Taormina in 2013. Bea went to Italy solo in 2014.

From Italy, Niccolo will proceed solo to Spain to meet our Spanish relatives. It’s an Iturralde tradition that each child and grandchild of Dada has to go to Spain to discover our Iberian roots.

Incidentally, this two week trip is being planned by the children. They decide where to go, where to stay, what to see, where to eat, what to do. Niccolo checks out reviews on restaurants and finds the best places. Being the most traveled of all of us, Cara booked all of our tickets and searched for the best places to stay given our budget. Bea and Cara decide on where to stay, and so far we’ve hit gold. Bea decides on the wine selection, Cara on the food to cook. I must say Google has been an amazing travel tool, and so has Waze. It’s nice to just sit back, enjoy the trip, and be a follower for once.

Our first stop was Rome for a night’s rest from the long flight from Manila via Doha. We stayed at Ecce, close to the train station. The next morning we headed to Florence where we stayed for four nights.

Cara booked us in an old, rustic but comfy Airbnb in San Niccolo, outside the city center. The neighborhood was quaint, peppered with little family-run shops and cafes. A lush green door opened up to an old, cold, dark and narrow staircase. Our apartment was three flights up, a challenge for the girls and Niccolo who carried up our suitcases. I was not allowed to carry anything heavy because of my bad back.

The high-ceilinged apartment sported two bedrooms with comfortable double beds, a tiny living/dining room, a kitchenette and a minuscule bathroom. The kitchen was surprisingly well stocked with olive oil, Balsamic vinegar and spices. After settling in, we decided to go out and explore Florence. We walked the cobbled streets, and entered a leather shop. I tried on an attractive reversible black and red jacket, but balked at its price, thinking I may be able to get a more reasonable one in the market.

Our first day in Florence was eventful until I accidentally sprained my ankle because of a missing cobblestone. (See https://monettehamlin.com) This cut short our foray in the city center, and we returned to the apartment. The children bought dinner from one of the nearby restaurants. To give my foot time to heal, I stayed in all of the next day. Cara whipped up a hearty breakfast of Florentine eggs and cold cuts. After making sure I was comfortable, the children went off to the city center. Alone in the apartment, I read, rested, and cleaned my email.

When the children came back, they surprised me by singing happy birthday and asking me to open a brown package. Lo and behold, inside was the reversible red and black leather jacket! The heartwarming note that came with it said it all. I feel so blessed to be loved by my children! Somehow, I think I’ve done a good job raising them.

Once again, Cara prepared a delicious Florentine dinner of rocket salad with raspberries and buffalo scamorza, mezzi rigatoni with a choice of chinghiale or pomodoro with Salsiccia sauce, washed down with La Pliuna Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, and ending with Cannolli and a Nutella tart.

The next morning, we decided to hear mass at the Duomo at noon. With my right foot bound, I hobbled alongside my children, slowing down their pace. The sun was out, showing off the beauty of Florence, making it gleam like a jewel. The Duomo was magnificent, the rich white and rose marble glistening. Throngs of tourists milled round the square. We entered the church and I was struck by the solemn silence inside. Not too many faithful inside the church. The mass was in Italian, but we followed, grateful for the mass leaflet translated to different languages.

After mass, we went to the market in search of Bondi. Frequented by locals, Bondi is a small restaurant selling a variety of foccacine. It was packed when we arrived but we stayed on and lined up at the counter, knowing the food is excellent. I had speck and mozzarella, while the others had prosciutto and mozzarella. We ended with biscotti e Vin Santo.

We then walked over to the Museo Casa di Dante, the birthplace of Dante Alighieri, one of the finest poets of Italy and author of The Divine Comedy, a classical masterpiece. It was interesting to see how life was in Florence during the late Middle Ages and what the landscape was then. Now, I know why there are many towers in Florence, as the prominent families tried to outdo each other in having taller and better looking towers that served not just as living quarters but also as fortresses in times of war. In fact, there were two warring factions which split Italy: the Ghibellines and the Guelf families, whose extreme rivalry and hatred for each other served as fodder for Shakespeare’s Capulet and Montague families in the Romeo and Juliet love story. It was also heartbreaking to learn of Dante’s unrequited love for his childhood friend Beatrice for whom he wrote haunting poems of love.

We made our way back to the apartment to rest, before going up to Michelangelo’s Gardens nearby to catch the sunset on Florence from its highest point. It was difficult climbing the many steps up to Michelangelo’s Gardens but I felt it important since Niccolo was not able to enjoy the sunset from Ponte Vecchio because of my accident. The view was magnificent, but the place was packed with tourists, and so it was a bit difficult to get a vantage point to watch the sunset.

That night, the children were craving for Florentine steak. However, all the restaurants nearby in San Niccolo were full so we had to walk to Ponte Vecchio to Trattoria Bordino. The long walk was definitely worth it! We feasted on Florentine crostini topped with warm chicken liver, steak carved table-side, mushroom risotto and fresh pasta vongole. For dessert, we had gelato at an artisanal gelateria at the Ponte Vecchio. Too full for dinner and too tired to walk, we took a cab home.

Early the next morning, Bea and Niccolo went to the Uffizzi museum, while Cara and I bought a walking stick and an ankle sock at a pharmacy to make it easier to walk. We met up with Bea and Cara and proceeded to the market to look for tomato seeds and limoncello, and bought some leather goods as pasalubong.

Niccolo wanted to see the Boboli Gardens and the Pitti Palace, but when we got there, we found them closed because of a holiday. The tourists who had planned to do the same thing were sunning themselves, seated on the sloping pavement, and eating gelato. Tired, we opted to return to our apartment, pack, then have happy hour drinks at the Bevi Vino Enoteca Bar downstairs. I tried Spritz for the first time. Sitting outside the bar in the waning daylight, I savored the moment. Here I was, with my beloved children, enjoying each other’s company, laughing, kidding each other, and just living! Oh, what joy!

It’s been a wonderful trip thus far. Florence never fails in delighting the visitor, and I hope to visit it again one day. Tomorrow, we move to Verona, Bea’s choice. None of us have been there before, so we don’t know what to expect. Time for a new adventure!